THE MAKING PROCESS OF JEWELLERY

Spiritual diamond pendant

Designing, creating and making gold jewellery is a time consuming process and requires craftsmanship. No matter how many carats the jewellery weighs for, the process will always be the same. The first thing you do is start off with a design and then move on to carving a wax model of the same. Different types of tools and techniques are used to create the wax model: steel wax carvers, files, hand gravers, burs, drills, heat etc. The wax is then ready for investing.

INVEST

Once, the wax model is ready, the next step is to invest. This requires the goldsmith to attach a sprue to the wax. The sprue serves as a channel for melting wax to escape during burn-out and later for molten gold to enter during casting. An investment flask is attached to the sprued wax which is attached to a round rubber base.

The process of investment begins as a dry fine white powder, a texture similar to that of Plaster-of-Paris. It is formulated to withstand high temperatures and hold great details during casting. Water is added to the investment to create slurry which is similar in consistency as that of a cake batter.

At this point, the investment needs to be free of bubbles. This can be done by placing the investment slurry in a vacuum where the air is drawn out. This process is called debubblizing. The wax is completely surrounded by a flask in to which the slurry is poured slowly. The flask is then placed into the vacuum chamber to make sure that there are no air pockets attached to the model that would corrupt the casting.

Once the investment hardens up, the rubber base is removed and the flask goes into the burn-out oven. The burn-out takes hours at a high temperature until the wax is eliminated completely. Once the burn-out is complete, only the hollow replica of an original wax carving remains inside the flask.

Now the mold is ready for casting. A casting machine holds the flask as the gold is melted in a crucible using a torch. The molten gold is thrown centrifugally into the hollow mold at the proper casting temperature and is held there until it solidifies completely.

The investment is then separated from the cast piece and only the rough casting remains. The casting only requires polish and clean up and the gold jewellery making process is complete.

THE DO’S AND DON’TS OF GOLD JEWELLERY

Whether you are out buying jewellery for yourself or plan on gifting it to someone, it is always a tough decision to make. It’s not only an investment but an item which you will cherish for many years to come. Here are a few quick do’s and don’ts that you need to keep in mind when buying gold jewellery.

THE DO’S

  1. Buy gold jewellery from a reputable company. You will only find the best in gold jewellery in stores which specialise in it.
  2. If you are buying jewellery online, a background check on the website as well as the company which you are planning to buy from is necessary.
  3. Look for any guarantees and warranties. Get a detailed explanation of their return policy in case the jewellery is not what you expected or has a defect.
  4. Shop for quality, not for discounted prices, even though the latter seems to be more tempting.
  5. Find the carat or quality mark on the piece of jewellery to see if it’s real gold or not. The carat is an indication of what percentage of gold is in the jewellery piece.

THE DON’TS

  1. Don’t be hasty especially when you are buying gold jewellery. Look around before you finalise.
  2. Don’t buy from a company or a jeweler that you cannot trust. 9 times out of 10, the jewellery could either be fake or stolen.
  3. Don’t forget to check the clasps and measurements. Size matters most when you are gifting it to someone else.

 

KNOWING PERFECTION

The price of a diamond or its quality is both determined by a set of four conditions known as the four C’s: cut, clarity, colour and carat. When you are out selecting a diamond, choose one that balances all these four qualities without putting an excessive strain on your budget. Perfect quality diamonds are rare and extremely expensive, but you can select a slightly less perfect diamond which still appears brilliant to the naked eye.

CUT

One determines the shape and brilliance of a diamond with the way it has been cut. A well-cut diamond will always reflect light from one facet to another. If the cut is deep or shallow, light escapes from the diamond prematurely which then lowers the quality of the diamond.

While the cut is associated more with the quality and level of brilliance and considered to be the most important factor in choosing a diamond, the shape is another aspect of the cut.

If you are still a little unsure about the diamond you are about to purchase, ask the jeweler to see the Gemological Institute of America’s (GIA’s) diamond grading report for any diamond you consider purchasing. This report will give you a rough grade on cut.

CLARITY

The purity of a diamond is usually referred by its clarity. While the higher quality stones have no visible marks and are considered flawless, most diamonds have surface blemishes known as inclusions. Such imperfections are not easily spotted by the naked eye and can only be seen by using a 10-power magnification glass.

One of the highest quality of diamonds have a clarity grade of VVS1 or VVS2 and have very, very small inclusions that are invisible to the eye even with a 10-power magnifier.

If you are on a tight budget, consider buying a diamond with an SI1 or SI2 rating. It has small inclusions but these are visible to the naked eye, but easy to spot with the magnifier.

COLOUR

Some of the highest qualities of diamonds are colourless. Such diamonds are a rare find and as compared to tinted diamonds, reflect light better. Since most tints are extremely difficult to see, it may not make a difference in the quality of the diamond but it will make a huge difference in the price.

If you want to buy a colourless diamond and price is no issue, then you could go for the ‘D’ grade diamond which is colourless (blue white). If you are unable to afford a D grade diamond, you have a choice between an E (ice white) or F (fine white) diamond.

G (white), H (top commercial white), or I (commercial white) are near colourless. These diamonds appear colourless in a face up position but display a faint yellow tint when viewed against a perfectly white background.

Another important tip to keep in mind is to inquire from the jeweler a diamond’s fluorescence which happens to appear when a diamond is exposed to ultraviolet light. This, however, does not have any effect on the diamond in regular light conditions. Opt for a diamond with medium fluorescence or strong fluorescence if you are on a tight budget.

CARAT

Carat weight does not in any way affect the quality of a stone. The heavier the diamond does not mean higher quality.

ADDITIONAL TIPS

  1. Before you start shopping for a diamond, decide on a budget.
  2. Do enough research about the kind of diamond you want to buy.
  3. Make sure to go around and look at more stores. This way you will have a better choice.
  4. Do not buy diamonds on the internet. This way you can examine the quality closely.
  5. Choose a lab-created diamond over a naturally mined diamond, since lab-created diamonds are less expensive.

 

Taking care of thy precious

The kinds of pearls that most of us are used to wearing now are mostly cultured pearls, which are formed when a bead or other object is inserted into an oyster or clam. This is done manually. Once, the object is inside the clam, it is coated with nacre, the patina that gives pearls their unique appearance.

Pearls take years to form and are exceptionally soft and need special care as compared to other gemstones. Pearls can be easily scratched, cracked and damaged. No matter the kind of pearl you wear, no matter how thick a coating it has, pearls need to be handled carefully. The beauty of the pearl lies in its luster, so here’s a checklist for you:

  1. Pearls are never to be tossed on top of one another or next to any other gems when kept in a jewellery box. Use separate jewellery pouches for separate set of pearls.
  2. Each one of us has a different skin type; some women sweat a lot more than others. The sweat then seeps into the pearl and it tends to lose its luster. Make sure to wipe the pearl with a soft cloth once you are done wearing it. Do not use objects like a tooth-brush, scouring pads, or other abrasive materials to clean pearls.
  3. Avoid letting pearls to come in contact with cosmetics, hair spray or perfume because it will lose its radiance.
  4. Let the pearls add the final touch to your look. Wear them after you have applied your makeup and perfume and styled your hair.
  5. Remove all your pearls jewellery before you apply hand and body creams.
  6. Pearls are exceptionally cohesive and shock-resistant but when in contact with sharp objects, they may get scratched. So be sure to wear them delicately and keep away from sharp metals.
  7. If you have scratched a pearl accidentally, gently rub olive oil on it. Remember this just protects it from further corrosion and is no magic spell to help it grow back.
  8. Dry air can also damage pearls as well heat which will turn them brown, dry them out and make them crack.
  9. When you are cleaning your pearls, read the labels clearly. Only use jewellery cleaners labeled as safe for pearls.
  10. Do not use ultrasonic cleaners or steam clean your pearls.
  11. Do not expose pearls to dish or wash detergents, bleaches, powdered cleansers, baking soda or ammonia-based cleaners.
  12. Get your pearls restrung once a year to make sure that the silk or nylon cord holding them together is in good shape.

Giving your corporate image a pearl makeover

Pearl accessories are a classic accessory to own. Perfect for any time of the day, they be can be worn in multiple ways and no longer have to be restricted for special occasions. Pearl necklaces can be worn to office and you needn’t look too fancy and it’s a must-have in every wardrobe.

When wearing pearls to work, be sure to keep the following tips in mind:

  1. Try and opt for understated, simple pieces.
  2. If you are looking to add polish and sophistication to your attire, wear one strand at a time.
  3. The pearl necklaces that you choose to wear to work should not fall past your bust line, and should complement, but not overpower, your entire look.
  4. Do not pair a pearl necklace with a pearl bracelet and earrings.
  5. Do not wear more than one pearl accessory at a time.
  6. Pair a short strand of pearls with business suits and have a long strand of pearls around your wrist.
  7. If you are looking for a corporate yet casual look, try a pearl drop earring.
  8. Let your client focus on your work, not on your jewellery.

GIFTING A JEWEL

Valentine's Day jewellery

Be it Christmas, a best friend’s birthday or even their wedding, we are always beating our brains about for present ideas. While some people are easy to buy gifts for compared to others, presenting them with jewellery can often relieve the agony of choice. Jewellery not only makes an incredibly versatile gift for all age groups, it also makes for a thoughtful one especially if it’s someone’s wedding. Seriously, who doesn’t love the idea of being gifted a jewel.

Let’s look at some of the things that one needs to keep in mind while buying jewellery for the following people:

WOMEN

No matter if you are buying jewellery for your Mom, girlfriend, wife or daughter, there is a staggering choice of jewellery to choose from which will cater to their specific tastes. Single bangles, a diamond bracelet are a good choice if you are on a tight budget while statement necklaces and pendants seem well suited for those who like to express individuality and uniqueness in their style. If you aren’t sure about their tastes or what to buy, you can also opt on presenting them with a gift card. Remember, it’s the thought that matters.

MEN

Buying jewellery for men is not a Herculean task because men, unlike women, are easy to please. Also, when it comes to jewellery for men, they don’t have too much of a choice. When we are buying a jewellery item for men, we wish to gift them something smart, sophisticated yet trendy at the same time. If it’s a teenager that you plan on gifting, style bracelets (not the one that Salman Khan made so famous), or wrist cuffs are a decent choice. Boys at that age are unsure of which fashion trend to follow and are most likely to experiment, so you never know if you have hit their “being-cool” quotient. Smart cuff-links and ties are perfect for those whose ideas of fashion spell class and it can also be worn on special occasions.

KIDS

Choosing jewellery for children is always fun especially if it’s a girl. Jewellery inspired by their favourite TV princesses or cartoon characters is always a commemorative birthday present. Christening bracelets and rings are also a common gifting option. While boys can be gifted leather necklaces, girls would love the jingling sound of charm bracelets. Children’s jewellery can always be personalised with their initials or their birthstone, not only make the gift unique but precious too.

As long as you know who you are buying jewellery for, it needn’t be a struggle. The safest jewellery where you can’t go wrong is to gift someone with classic silver earrings or a platinum bracelet. Elegant and timeless, they make for a perfect gift.

BUYING JEWELLERY SMARTLY

Gold and diamond ring

Classic jewellery, be it any form, never goes out of style. The more you invest in jewellery, the better it is. But when you are out in the market, shopping for a piece of jewellery, it’s important to compare quality, price and service from several different retailers. It is imperative to keep a few pointers in mind when buying jewellery especially for weddings or gifting purposes.

THE MAKING CHARGES

When you gold jewellery which is customised, there is a certain amount included in the overall bill, which is termed as making charges. Making charges are nothing but the amount you pay for the labour which is involved in making that piece of jewellery. Making charges are always calculated based on the actual price of gold. So, higher the price of gold, higher would be the making charges.

Having mentioned that, you need to understand that every ornament will have different making charges. Bangles and chains usually have very low making charges. This is because most of the designs on chains and bangles are mass produced and machine-made and are comparatively cheaper than a piece with intricate design.

CHECK FOR HALLMARK

The price of the piece of jewellery is always directly linked to its purity. According to the ministry of consumer affairs, hallmarking is the official recording of the proportionate content of precious metal in gold. Hence, before you buy any jewellery, you should always check the hallmark and the number corresponding to the purity of gold.

DO NOT BUY JEWELLERY WITH STONES

Jewellery studded with precious or semi-precious stones is always prettier to look at but you need to keep in mind that it will be more expensive. When you buy jewellery encrusted with stones, it is weighed along with the stone and is priced accordingly. Also, it is very difficult to check the purity of stones, especially semi-precious ones, unlike that of gold.

PRICING OF GOLD

As mentioned earlier, the price of gold is determined by the purity of gold. Gold prices are bound to change every day based on the market rate. Before buying or investing in expensive gold jewellery, make sure to do a quick-check on the day’s rate to avoid any kind of fraud.

BUY BACK OFFERS

A lot of branded stores across the country have buy back offers for jewellery but not all offers are the same. Check with your jeweller before you avail that offer.

If you keep these pointers in mind, you will definitely be making a smart buy this festive season.

10 PEARL MUST-HAVES IN YOUR JEWELLERY BOX

Women when setting up their jewellery boxes often wonder as to what key pieces they need to fill it up. For each of them, their answer is different. You do not have to fill up those treasure chests with all kinds of jewellery. Jewellery is meant to be worn so make sure to keep it simple, stunning and precious. Don’t store jewels that you have no intention of wearing. So, here are the 10 pearl must-haves:

  1. PEARL RINGS – Rings are more of a personal choice. You can wear a huge pearl or several small ones that are encrusted in the ring.
  2. BRACELETS – Charm bracelets with a bunch of pearls and charms strung together always look fun.
    To see our exciting and affordable range of Bracelets, please click here
  3. Wear pink and white pearls with gold links. Pearl bracelets should be one size bigger than your wrist. They should not sit too tight on your wrist.
  4. EARRINGS – Pearl studs are a must-have in any jewellery box. They are the perfect accessory to match any corporate outfit. Wear pearl studs depending on the size of your face.
    To see our exciting and affordable range of Pearl Earrings, please click here
  5. Pearl hoops are always attractive. Three-inch hoops to curvaceous huggies, hoops match the rhythmic bounce in your step.
  6. Earrings with a pearl hanging always add to a delicate touch to your overall appearance.
  7. Long drops which are no shorter than 2 inches long look pretty.
  8. Chandeliers can be worn at special functions like weddings. Wear your hair in a bun to show them off.
  9. PENDANTS – A variety of pendants are the foundation of your necklace collection. A string of layered pearls are always handy but wear them with a suitable neckline.
    To see our exciting and affordable range of Pearl Pendant Sets, please click here
  10. A single gemstone when paired with a 16’’ pearl necklace, not only makes you look stunning but goes well with a lot of outfits too.
    To see our exciting and affordable range of Pearl Necklace Sets, please click here

Gift ideas for Valentine’s Day!!

Diamond and gold earrings

14th February, universally advertised as the “day of love”, doesn’t have to translate into boring, cheesy cards or calorie-adding chocolates or even wilting flowers. And jewellery doesn’t have to be expensive or necessarily a diamond. Agreed, diamonds are a woman’s best friend but women love jewellery. Period. Here’s a list of jewellery gifts that you may want to buy her if you are planning to score a couple of brownie points: Heart shaped pendant The JPearls Lovely Earrings Set – No one can fail to be wooed by these earrings. Cute as well as elegant at the same time, these earrings can be work to casual night-outs. Price: Rs. 450 http://www.jpearls.com/Products/Jewellery-Earrings-Pearl-Earrings/Jpearls/Jpearls-Lovely-Earrings-Set-/pid-5816142.aspx Valentine's Day jewellery The JPearls Valentine Day Combo – This combo combines two pairs of earrings and a 2 string bracelet with diamond shaped hearts attached. Price: Rs. 850 http://www.jpearls.com/Products/Jewellery-Earrings-Pearl-Earrings/Jpearls/Jpearls-Valentine-Day-Combo-/pid-5816144.aspx Pendant The JPearls Fairy Princess Diamond Pendatnt – A sweet diamond pendant that speaks elegance in its entirety. With 16 diamonds set in a gold pearl drop, be sure to sway her off her feet with this one. Price: 12, 975 http://www.jpearls.com/Products/Jewellery-Pendants-Diamond-Pendant/Jpearls/Jpearls-Fairy-Princess-Diamond-Pendant-/pid-5816268.aspx Diamond pendant The Jpearls Everlasting Diamond Pendant – With 25 diamond pieces set in a gold chain and a pendant, let this necklace be a vow for your everlasting love. Price: Rs. 9,975 http://www.jpearls.com/Products/Jewellery-Pendants-Diamond-Pendant/Jpearls/Jpearls-Everlasting-Diamond-Pendent/pid-5816262.aspx Gold and diamond ring The JPearls Cypress Finger Ring – The simple design of the Cypress Finger Ring means this ring steers clear of overly soppy sentiment. Price: Rs. 14,900 http://www.jpearls.com/Products/Jewellery-Rings-Diamond-Rings/Jpearls/Jpearls-Cypress-Finger-Ring-/pid-5820158.aspx Diamond and gold earrings The JPearls Sparkling Diamond Earrings – What better way to say I love you than with a pair of beautiful .160 carat diamonds set in 2.6gms of gold earrings. Price: 18,150 http://www.jpearls.com/Products/Jewellery-Earrings-Diamond-Earrings/Jpearls/Jpearls-Sparkling-Diamond-Earrings-/pid-5817058.aspx Gold earrings The JPearls Love Bugs Diamond Earrings – These are cute and small and can be worn for a casual date-night or throughout the day as well. Price: Rs. 15,900 http://www.jpearls.com/Products/Jewellery-Earrings-Diamond-Earrings/Jpearls/Jpearls-Love-Bugs-Diamond-Earrings-/pid-5817056.aspx Tops The JPearls Spring Diamond Earrings – If you are doubtful about her choice in jewellery, then these smart, and classy, spring diamond studs are the perfect buy. Price: 12,600 http://www.jpearls.com/Products/Jewellery-Earrings-Diamond-Earrings/Jpearls/Jpearls-Spring-Diamond-Earrings-/pid-5817050.aspx